Water and history are the defining elements at Coconut Lagoon.

Water surges in clockwork rhythms on its shores, through its canals and pools. And history stands watch from the grounds above. . From the centuries-old beams of the heritage mansion to the carved woods of the reception,the past comes alive as liquid reflections, mirrored in ripples and shards wherever you look.

Fittingly, Coconut Lagoon can be reached only over the water. The great Vembanad lake, an inland sea that stretches clear across central Kerala, forms a breeze-laden watery highway. Your coach transfer happens via a generously clunky wooden boat with a little inboard motor (so as not to disturb the fishes). And the lobby, when you arrive, turns out to be a reconstructed 19th century mansion with a stone jetty attached. Your boat putters sedately through a narrow canal, its banks covered with flowers. Tiled-roof bungalows peer through the foliage. And with a reviving coconut cocktail in one hand, you step off the boat and up to the reception desk, all ready to check in. Conde´ Nast Traveller once described Coconut Lagoon as one of the 25 best destinations in the world. Our guests tell us that the journey inward is an experience to match.

Fuedal Kerala was a jigsaw of tiny states, principalities and landholdings, creating a unique culture, architecture and way of living.

It is this heritage that echoes in Coconut Lagoons dark timbers.

Until a few years ago, the old 'therawads' or family homes of the area were running to seed, the landed families scattered, the craftmen unable to make a living.

We wanted not only to perpetuate this slowly vanishing world, but to bring it alive for the contemporary traveller. Village craftspeople were invited to restore the work of their forefathers, to transport an ancient way of life to the shores of the Vembanad, and create an experience of ecological living that was shot through with the spirit of ancient Malabar.

We've tried our best to ensure that this spirit reflects in every structure. From the carved woods of the ceilings, to the brasswork on the doors, it's all faithful to a forgotten graciousness. Those with an eye for detail will find much to delight in. Sunlight filtering through the intricate fretwork of a roof shade. A gleaming of brass, a slash of cast iron, a preternaturally gleaming, polished wooden pillar...

One of the best ways to enjoy the lake is to take our sunset cruise, an hour-long idyll with flute accompaniment.

The half-day cruise (extendable at will - time has a strange meaning around here) along the backwater canals is a fine way to experience village life , unfolding in vignettes along grassy banks shaded by tropical canopies, the village houses at mere handshaking distance.

Those who like a bit of a walk can amble along to Philip Kutty's Farm, through lush paddy fields spotted with coconut groves. At the end of it all, you can get up close with organic farming, done the old-fashioned way.Or try a glass of refreshing palm toddy, a mildly alcoholic local tipple that should fortify you nicely for the walk back.

Water lovers might enjoy taking an oar- or punt-boat out on to the lake. Within minutes, you're in a watery universe, so quiet, you can hear your own blood pumping around your head.

The terminally sedate can borrow a rod and bait from the reception and spend their time just fishing in the canal, right outside their cottage. Or take up that time-honoured activity beloved of our guests: get a book from the bar library, then let it slip gently out of your hands as your hammock lulls you into dreamland.

The spirit of old Kerala is alive and well in our cuisines. Coconut Lagoon's the place to sample some authentic Malabari food, with the accent, of course, on fresh fish from the lake and the sea. Sample some giant freshwater prawns, along with a plate of nourishing red rice. Or try the local delicacy, Karimeen (Pearl Spot fish) a dish beloved of its connoisseurs, who will argue for hours over the proper method of cooking it (we've adopted them all).

Our Ayurvedic Centre is the place to experience the gentle, yet deep healing of an Ayurvedic massage in its authentic form. Ayurveda, of course, is India's ancient science of healing, combining medicine, therapy and massage to produce wellness in the mind, body and spirit without the slightest side effects.